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Now that the adjustment nut and locknut are loose, pull up on the clutch cable again. 1; 2; Next. He made some adjustment on the clutch pedal itself, and since then, changing gears was very smooth again, but the low engagement point was still the same. It takes almost no time to get the engagement point either closer, or further away from the grip. This process is identical for either the brake or the clutch. NOTE: I have aftermarket levers, but they use the stock plungers. There is no difference in the process. Step 2: Adjust the clutch lever. I would just like like my engagement point to be much closer to the floor so I can have my heel on the floorboard which gives much better clutch engagement control than having my entire leg in the air. The hydraulic clutch adjusts itself, much like a disc brake caliper. You can adjust clutch free play but then you have alot of slack on your clutch lever and I dont like it flapping around cause of too much free play. Off with the rear brake pedal, off with the kickstarter and off with the cover.You will most likely need a new gasket as well. Thanks to all for the replies. The symptoms of air in the clutch line A bad or failing hydraulic clutch will typically produce a few symptoms that alert the keen driver of a potential issue and its time for you to hit the garage . Clutch take-up mostly occurs within the first 1/2" or so of level travel from the grip. Managed to roll into a gas station and get it towed to the shop. You will feel a point where the clutch lever engages. The clutch is adjustable within certian limits. Drain the oil. Driving is now very difficult. Adjust it once, and leave it, if clutch engagement changes, something is leaking. This is where the clutch cable should be adjusted too. They replaced the clutch and flywheel and now the engagement point is crazy high. First, you need to remove the T-25 Torx that holds the inside point on your hand guards. I have mine adjust so there is just a little bit of noticeable free play in the clutch handle. ... Just set the pivot point as far out as possible and you should not need to ever re-adjust it. There is no way to adjust where in the travel your clutch engages using the stock parts. Reply. My foot is almost completely off the clutch before the car moves (in 1st from a stop). 1 - 20 of 33 Posts. When I had my new clutch put in the engagement was set really high but after driving it for awhile it went back to the way it was before installing the new clutch. Sometimes, however, engagement happens with the lever almost against the grip. For those of you who are uncomfortable with the engagement point of your clutch, there are plenty of guides on how to adjust a hydraulic clutch. Mine is the same way. Needless to say, the latter makes pulling out into traffic a little too exciting. Under the clutch cover / primary drive there is an adjuster in the centre of the clutch pressure plate that can be adjusted to increase/decrease the freeplay in the pushrod. Oh, and there's no "linkages" to adjust on a hydraulic clutch Go. The engagement point remains the same throughout the life of the clutch. Save Share. That pushrod adjustment should never have to be messed around with, it's only designed to adjust freeplay. Re: the original issue, anyone know where the adjustable pushrod for the master cylinder can be found? 1 of 2 Go to page. Its pretty simple to get to. The shop advised me not to adjust it and to give it a few days to get used to. I'm experiencing inconsistent clutch engagement points on my new-to-me 2013 GSW with 31k miles. 1) adjust the clutch friction point/engagement point to be higher so that the behavior reverts to how it used to be with the Hill Holder disengaging before I hit my friction point or 2) adjust the Hill Holder to release lower/earlier/before my new "low" friction point There's a lot going on under the dash by the pedals. Last.

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